Friday, August 9, 2013

i love my home (part 1: south cooking lake)

Everyone mourns the lake.

What used to be a thriving waterfront for boating, canoeing, fishing and swimming has been disappearing for decades. Lakes don't really dry up; they just fill in, slowly, from the bottom to the top with sludgy sediment eroded from the watershed and from decomposing plants. What used to be a lake deep enough for horses to swim in over their heads is now probably no more than a foot deep. This kind of lake is classified as eutrophic: shallow, weedy and filled with organic matter. It is evolving into a wetland before our eyes. Large areas have given away to vegetation.

Shrubs and wayward canola grow in the very bay that I once canoed across as a child at summer camp. It was a windy day, I was nine years old, in an aluminum canoe with two other girls my age. One was scared and crying; she wouldn't paddle. We were blown clear across the lake, coming ashore on someone's farm. I remember looking back towards our own shore and thinking it looked so far away. Other kids in other canoes paddled around the shoreline, but we were lost in some distant land, not knowing what to do or how to paddle effectively enough to get back. Eventually, a camp staff member rescued us and towed us to safety. To this day, when I look across the lake and see the field dotted with cows and the idyllic red barn, I think of sitting in a canoe at the edge of that field, wondering whether we should ask the farmer for help. But the idea of the lake being choppy enough to make canoeing difficult is almost laughable now. So much has changed.

Four summers ago, a large bull moose waded out into the lake, as I'm sure he had done for many summers of his life. They like to eat underwater vegetation. They stand long-legged in lakes and ponds, dipping their noses below the water to tear up tender grasses and weeds. But this moose hadn't kept track of the way the land is always changing -- how you can never take nature for granted. As he waded deeper and deeper, he sunk down into the sludge beneath the water. Down past his belly. Stuck out there, he must have fought a long time to free himself, but by the time we saw him, he was mostly still. We heard his moaning cries. We could see him from the area we use for campfires with the kids at camp. The little girls all cried for him, begging our staff members to rescue him, their fingers all pointing out past the large wooden cross that stands on the beach to the suffering soul in the water beyond. Fish and Wildlife had to come out the next day. They went out in a canoe to assess his situation and determined there was no way to save him. I was standing on the soccer field with a group of twenty kids around me when I heard the gunshot. The kids, startled, looked to me. I told them it was fireworks. The fact that it was mid-day didn't seem to occur to them, and they believed me. They went on playing, and that night their week of camp was over, so they all went home. I wonder if any of them ever thought of that moose again. Now there's no sign of him; the area is filled in with reeds.

So often I ride my horse alone up this shoreline. His hooves flatten reeds and tall grasses to the spongey ground. His footsteps scare up crickets and frogs. Sometimes the grass is stirrup-high. If I look up the shoreline, I can imagine I'm somewhere very far from civilization. Somewhere very wild. All I can hear in those moments are the sounds of my horse moving through the grass and the buzz of insects and the wind through the leaves of poplar and birch and the calls of birds and the splash of ducks moving across the water. And sometimes, my own voice, as I speak to my horse and to myself and to God.

There may not be water-skiers and fishermen on this lake anymore, but there is so much more here than ever before. The vegetation grows wild. What used to be a sandy beach is now overgrown with cattails, bullrushes, bushes and saplings. The ducks, geese and other shorebirds are thriving in ways I've never seen before. Once, while I rode my horse along the lakeside, what seemed like a thousand birds took off from the water's surface and flew over our heads; the sound of their wings beating was deafening. Awestruck and a little afraid, I craned my neck to watch them pass us and fled to the water around the bend.

In the early spring I can hear the constant mating calls of ducks from my house. Watching ducklings and goslings swimming along behind their mothers is a special pleasure. And in recent years, I've seen much more wildlife activity in our back pasture area, a mix of forest and meadow that borders the lake. I regularly see deer, moose, osprey, falcons, owls, coyotes, and even bald eagles. Just last night while walking my dog, I was followed by a red-tailed hawk, who cried at me to stop invading his privacy. I'm not sure if this increase in wildlife is related to the fact that our lake is becoming a wetland, or if I am just more conscious lately of what goes on in nature around me. Either way, it has been an incredible gift, and I want to share it with as many people as I can.

Last week, I had the kids at camp making sandcastles down on this wild shore. I found four little clearings in the trees and brush that miraculously held soft, clean, non-weedy sand. The kids ran around collecting wildflowers, sticks, rocks and moss to decorate their creations. They dug moats, putting their hands into the same sand that I'm sure I felt between my toes when I was nine years old, standing on the shore with a canoe paddle in my hand. I looked at the trees that never used to exist but are now taller than me, and wondered what this lakeshore will look like in another fifteen years. Or thirty, or fifty, or a hundred. Long after Birch Bay Ranch no longer resides on this shoreline, what will it look like? Will the clearing where we have our campfires stay clear, or will the aspen forest overtake everything? Will there be any people here to build sandcastles and ride horses, or will the only residents be birds, moose and beavers?

Everyone mourns the lake, wishes it would come back deep and clear. Longs to splash out into the waves in bathing suits, dreams of boating along its surface, of standing happy and shivery on the shore, water dripping from their hair onto sunburned shoulders, smelling of sand and sunscreen and something vegetal, like algae. But I see the thriving community of plants and animals who have moved in now that we've moved out, and I don't mourn it the same way the others do. We can still use this lake, interact with it and enjoy it. I am glad to hear bird calls and watch ducklings grow and listen to frog songs. God created so many different and incredible things -- I hope I'll be able to cherish them all.

And nature has a way of reclaiming what is hers. What will she do with this piece of water and land that I have known and loved for seventeen years? And will I be able to witness it?







night

I kept a typewriter
I carried a little dark suitcase around
I asked the proprietor for some or a little space
I was a stranger
I was always moving about
I knew there was lightning on the moon
I hammered gold letters against the wilderness
I hammered gold letters against the night
I held this light to myself
I had so little to say to all the rest


-- Alfred Starr Hamilton


Monday, July 8, 2013

presence

Well, I have been wrenched into the present at last. Slapped in the face by realities I never once considered a possibility. While I've been spending my days wallowing in longing for the past, or hoping for a distant future, I took for granted what was now. And I know that. I've known it this whole time, struggled against that fact, tried pulling myself out of the past, tried making myself feel present, tried swallowing that crippling nostalgia. But I can't do just by sheer force of will, and never have been able to.

Well, I'm here now, present. And I am not happy about it. Now I'm scrambling to stop taking for granted all the wonderful things about our life here in the country. One day, we will not be young. One day, we will not live in a community where everyone loves us. Where nature abounds. Where I can step out the door of my office and let my horse breathe his sweet hay breath onto the palm of my hand whenever I feel like it. One day, the work we do will not be in service to a greater cause. One day we'll look back on this time and miss feeling passionate.

This era, too, will pass. And I will mourn it for a long time.

Maybe forever.

To treasure a life -- how many of you can say you're really doing it?

Wednesday, June 19, 2013

summertime

It's summertime. When it isn't raining, the sun is hot. Alberta is such a funny place -- we live always between two extremes. Those long winters where the cold settles right down into your bones and doesn't leave for months, and these short, blazing summers where the sun seems almost never to set.

Lately it's been muggy. Threatening to thunderstorm. Warnings of tornados break into our radio broadcasts and we find ourselves sitting on the floor in the basement laundry room, our dog, whining, on a leash. The rain will pour down for an hour and then the sun comes out and all that water comes out of the fields in a mist, all at once. Steam curls off our tin roof.

I would spend more time outside if it weren't for the mosquitos. They're everywhere, in clouds, and they're insatiable.

Lately I've been working on a project for work that enables me to spend time during the day photographing our horses. I have loved how each of their personalities becomes so evident on film. The silly ones are silly, the grouchy ones grouchy. The ones who know how pretty they are stand tall, ears pricked forward, eyes bright on some imaginary point beyond the lens. How do they know how to do that?

Tomorrow night I'm going on a trip with my friends (we do it every year). I'm only about a quarter of the way packed; the rest of my clothes are currently drying on the rack in the laundry room. Part of me feels guilty for taking time off work. But the rest of me is thinking about laughing in the car and wandering through wilderness and drinking wine outside. And wondering what wildlife I'll see.

When I get back, true summer will begin. I might not come up for air until September.


Thursday, May 23, 2013

be here now

Are there other people in the world who are being as stifled by nostalgia as I am?

I'm sitting in my office at a place I've always loved to work at. I have a nice life. I can ride horses whenever I feel like it, I'm surrounded by nature all the time. My husband is easily the best man I know. We are comfortable. The times here are not hard, even though some days feel impossibly long.

But just now I heard a song that wrenched me back three years, to sitting at my desk in the little Garneau house. An open window, cool air, rain drops on the roof. The street was so green, everything was fresh. I'd be walking to work with a lime green umbrella later that day. I'd be staying out until the sun rose with new best friends.

This memory, rather than just being a sweet little glimpse into a very different kind of life I used to live, seems to have closed around my heart like a tight fist. It seems rather than reliving happy memories, I immediately think, "I never go back."

And that thought makes me feel immeasurably sad. It's homesickness, really. Homesick for another time.

I'm never present enough to just enjoy this time.

How can I be here now?

Monday, May 6, 2013

thirty minutes or more

Because I've committed to this challenge, I've been spending a minimum of thirty minutes in nature every day. So far, it's been easy. The weather has finally turned, and it feels like winter might not come back for a while. So I've been spending afternoons wandering around in the not-yet-budded aspen forest, sometimes on horseback, sometimes on foot, once at the reins of a team driving horses. Every day the grass in the field gets a bit greener. I can't wait until there are leaves on the trees. I've had enough starkness for a long while, I think. Those sharp contrasts of wintertime have ceased to inspire me. The ice has come off the lake, at least. And I thought I saw some tiny new buds on the mayday tree at my parents'.

It is a wonderful gift, being out in the world.

Wednesday, April 17, 2013

workdays in a new season

For two days, the sun has shone brightly, and warmly, and I have felt restless and trapped behind my desk. Yesterday, I rode a horse and called it work. I'm struggling with having the self-control not to do the same today.

This afternoon, my sister and I took some photos of donations I've received for our silent auction. She climbed a mountain of snow while wearing a donated backpack, rode a bicycle around the office and dismantled a tool kit. I can feel new crowsfeet forming from this concentrated half hour of laughter.

I wish all my days could be like this.


Tuesday, April 2, 2013

of snowfall and sunshine

Maybe now it's happening. Spring.

It had a few false starts this year. It got my hopes up, and then brought more snow. The shelf of ice that has been creeping over the edge of our roof was growing more terrifying by the day, but yesterday Eric knocked it all down once and for all. Some patches of the road that runs from one end of the ranch to the other are actually clear of snow. Eric and I marvelled in the fact that for the first time in months, there was gravel under our feet.

Springtime brings another set of horse chores. The horses are all shedding their winter coats like crazy. I watch them scratching their bodies on the fence. Our mare seems to be in heat and repeatedly escapes her pen in search of love. Unfortunately the only stud on the property is her own foal from last year. He is under careful lock and key, so there won't be any funny business, but until her heat cycle is over, she has to be kept in a stall in the barn. Which means the stall needs to be mucked out, her water needs to be constantly changed as she loves to fill it with hay, and she needs to be hand-walked so she doesn't go insane. Tomorrow, I'll be catching all 29 of our horses and bringing them in to have the farrier trim their hooves. I'll be giving them dewormer and maybe even their vaccinations, if I have enough time. I'll be brushing them to help them lose their itchy winter coats and sending them back to their pens, ready for the upcoming season of trail rides and summer camps. I don't really have time for any of this, as I actually have three other jobs.

On Friday, my sister and our friend came out, and we rode our usual trail ride loop twice. Sebastian was headstrong and excitable. My sister rode a new horse we just bought last week. He is tall and golden and beautiful, and was just the best gem a horse could be on our ride. When the other two horses were snorting anxiously and trotting sideways at the possibility of a moose in the trees, he remained steadfast and calm, walking out like nothing was wrong. I'm so happy to have him here.

We hosted a big Easter dinner for our family. I made an enormous bone-in ham with farmers' market perogies, pickled beets and fresh buns. My sister brought a salad and Eric's mom brought a sweet and spicy bean dish. There was much wine and beer involved. I love to have them here. Their willingness to visit us out in the country means more to me than they probably know. Without the possibility of visitors, there is a little layer of loneliness over everything out here.

Two weeks ago, Eric and I stood outside our back door in silence, listening to the sound snowflakes make when they hit the ground. Have you ever heard it? Every bird and wild animal had burrowed away for the night. There were no cars or trains or any other vehicle within earshot. There was no wind, no leaves rustling. Just the snow falling onto the ground and our breaths held in our chests to hear the noise it made when it met the earth.

I just need more good days. I need the sunshine to stretch onwards for a few more weeks. I need new grass to begin growing, new buds on the trees. More hopeful days like the ones this weekend, when the sun felt warm on my face and the snow began to recede. And then all will be well.


Thursday, February 21, 2013

colourless

Everything today is white or grey. There is frost on everything: every branch and needle in the forest, every eyelash on every horse. It kaleidoscopes into patterns on my truck's windshield and builds up around the fencing wire. In the early morning a fog unravels over the field. It is a blank, white space.

I feel colourless.

Winter goes on forever in the country.

Saturday, February 16, 2013

under sea and snow

It's the middle of February. I don't like this month very much. It's when winter starts to really bear down on top of me. And I am desperate to see some green leaves. At work, I daydream of lying in a grassy field. I miss tee-shirts and not having to wear long underwear. I want to sit on my front porch with a coffee and read a book for a while.

Last night was another technology-free night for Eric and I. We do it once a week. It does a person good to unplug for a while. I gave him a haircut for the first time, with mediocre results. We had a picnic of bread, cheese, sausage and olives. We drank a bottle of wine and played Trivial Pursuit. Then we went to bed and I read aloud to him Rachel Carson's essay, "Undersea" from the book of her posthumously discovered writings, Lost Woods. It was too beautiful not to read out loud. 

I've felt lately like making things. Considering art. Remembering sewing. The afghan I started in the fall and never returned to. Building things with wood. Scavenging things to be repurposed, renewed. Eric says there's solid oak from an old church pew lying in a pile of scrap wood in the shop. We've been talking about buying canvasses and paint. He and I could do so many things.

I guess I could start by taking in the Christmas lights in from the porch.

Wednesday, February 6, 2013

one resolution

Today I rode a horse into the woods. He has not been tacked up since October. He was jittery and tense, strong in my hands and ultra-sensitive to my leg. He has gone a bit wild, this winter, whereas I've gone the opposite. I have drawn into the comforts of my warm home. I haven't been out in the woods on horseback all winter because I am comfortable indoors, and, to be honest, I'm afraid of what I might encounter. Horses don't like to see moose -- first their ears prick in the direction of the animal, before I can even see it. Then they stop completely and stand stalk still, their head up, eyes wide, nostrils flaring, all of the senses trying to determine the exact cause for alarm. Their bodies tense. By the time the moose is visible, they've already decided their instincts were correct, and they usually choose that favourite response of theirs: flight. And I happen to know there's a moose and her calf living somewhere near my house. Plus what sounds in the night like hundreds of coyotes.

Nevertheless: today, my horse and I went into the woods. First we rode out onto the frozen lake. Right to the middle of it, where we stood and looked at the expanse of white running southeast until it blurred into the blue-grey treeline and curved around the bend out of sight. I have never stood in the centre of a frozen lake before. Now I can't imagine why not. Afterwards, we turned back into the forest and followed a trail worn down in the snow by paw prints. I can't be sure it wasn't made that way by our own dogs, but I'm fairly certain this was a well-travelled coyote route, as I often hear them howling from this direction. Eventually it fizzled out, so we had to blaze our own trail through the bare, spindly bushes. We finally emerged into the big field, where we had to wade through three-foot snowdrifts. I am lucky to own a horse so large as Sebastian. I always know he'll make it through.

Afterwards, I was sore. My back, shoulders and arms ache from the effort it takes to hold back an excited horse for an hour's romp through wilderness and countryside. But it felt good. Familiar. I know he will be more manageable each time I ride him. By spring we'll be galloping unconcerned through our back pasture. Down the lane that winds through meadow and forest, all the way to the lake.

For now, this afternoon was just one resolution achieved.

Sunday, February 3, 2013

wilderness goals

Today, my dog followed some wild animal -- coyote? rabbit? -- down a bunny trail in the snow. I followed her through the trees past naked aspen and birch, an abandoned osprey nest, a tangle of red-barked bushes, until I found myself standing out on the frozen lake in the bright sunlight. There were no more animal trails out here in the open. Just clean snow. It felt like wandering through the woods into a vast meadow. But I knew there was water under where I stood -- or at least, there had been at some point. The dog was already so far away, bent on catching her prey. I felt quiet, and alone and wonderful.

I have not been out in the wilderness enough. Living in the city, I made a point of it. I'd drive out here, get on my horse, and explore that lakeshore. Discover paths in the woods made by deer, follow them until they turned into nothing but bush. Once, while we galloped through a long field, a red-tailed hawk flew just in front of us. I have never felt like such a free, wild thing.

But now that I'm out here, the woods and the lake and the meadow -- they're all just the backdrop to the mundane ins and outs of my regular life.

It's February, now.

A new goal: get into the wilderness at least once a week.

As for January's goals (complete my four sewing projects, ride a horse, write a poem, buy a calendar), I did do a few of them. I sewed one summer sundress, with much frustration and some swearing and lots of wishing my mom were there. I did not ride a horse, but I did learn to drive a team of them and have, in the last week, driven four sleigh rides. I wrote a poem about a coyote. I bought this calendar.


Monday, January 21, 2013

how i go to the woods

How I go to the woods
Mary Oliver

Ordinarily, I go to the woods alone,
with not a single friend, for they are all
smilers and talkers and therefore unsuitable.

I don't really want to be witnessed talking to
the catbirds or hugging the old black oak tree.
I have my way of praying, as you no doubt have yours.

Besides, when I am alone I can become invisible.
I can sit on the top of a dune as motionless as an uprise
of weeds, until the foxes run by unconcerned.
I can hear the almost unbearable sound of the roses singing.

If you have ever gone to the woods with me,
I must love you very much.


Friday, January 11, 2013

a creed

This is the personal creed of Dr. J.W. Grant MacEwan. I put this up on the bulletin board in my office to remind myself to always endeavour to leave things better than I found them. To know every day that my dependence on the land is fundamental. And to help myself not to settle for an ideology that is handed to me; rather to insist upon searching for one.

Dr. MacEwan wrote extensively on matters of conservation and the truly human stories of how Western Canada came to be the way we know it today. He made a massive contribution to the mythology of this region. He believed that we must nurture sustainable relationships with our environment and with each other in order to innovate. Also, he liked horses.

*

I believe instinctively in a God for whom I am prepared to search.

I believe it is an offence against the God of Nature for me to accept any hand-me-down, man-defined religion or creed without the test of reason.  I believe no man dead or alive knows more about God
than I can know by searching.

I believe that the God of Nature must be without prejudice, with exactly the same concern for all His children, and that the human invokes no more, no less of fatherly love than the beaver or sparrow.

I believe I am an integral part of the environment and, as a good subject, I must establish an enduring relationship with my surroundings.  My dependence upon the land is fundamental.

I believe destructive waste and greedy exploitation are sins.

I believe the biggest challenge is in being a helper rather than a destroyer of the treasures in Nature's storehouse, a conserver, a husbandman and partner in caring for the Vineyard.

I accept, with apologies to Albert Schweitzer, "a Reverence for Life" and all that is of the Great Spirit's creation.

I believe morality is not complete until the individual holds all of the Great Spirit's creatures in brotherhood and has compassion for all.  A fundamental concept of Good consists of working to preserve all creatures with feeling and the will to live.

I am prepared to stand before my Maker, the Ruler of the entire Universe, with no other plea than that I have tried to leave things in His Vineyard better than I found them.

Dr. J.W. Grant MacEwan, 1969

Wednesday, January 9, 2013

coyote

At night, I listen to coyotes. I can feel them coming closer. As winter wears on, they are drawn inward to our little patch of civilization in their wide wilderness. The other night as I fed the horses, I could hear their cries. They sounded so close, I was surprised I couldn't see them. The dog ran back and forth at the edge of the horse pen, barking. His warnings made no difference. The coyotes called anyway. Have you ever heard them? Do you know that strange cry? It almost sounds like children screaming. It made the hair on the back of my neck stand up.

And when I returned to my house, the dog suddenly took off barking up the road. In the moonlight and shadows, I couldn't see where he was headed, until his barks turned to whines and I saw him running back towards me. Something followed him, but stopped dead in its tracks when I stepped out onto the road. It had silvery fur and crouched low to the ground. The dog paced back and forth in front of me, barking.

This is not the first time I have seen one. This fall, I encountered one while out riding my horse. The coyote stood in the middle of the road through our back pasture and stared at me. I was confident that he would be scared off by my presence, but he didn't move. Finally, unnerved by his steady patience and unblinking stare, I turned to leave. When I looked back over my shoulder, he was standing right where I'd left him, watching me. Waiting for me to leave.

This morning I wrote a hasty, ill-constructed poem about these creatures I find myself sharing my home with. I have been thinking a lot about them. About their society. How a group of wild dogs might act. Do they understand the barking of the dog when he warns them to stay away? Do they recognize him as one of their own, just with different fur and a deeper voice? How close will they come?

Sometimes I stand on the deck of my house and listen to them calling to each other in the night and I wonder what their voices mean. Why do they sing together? I stare into the dark tree line where the crying comes from. I never see them there.

I hope this poem will turn into something better.

*

coyote


sometimes i think it’s just you and me out here
mostly when your cries sound like children
somewhere close by    and desperate

hungry

i stand at the edge of a wilderness and look for you
but you are much too clever to be seen
are you scared?    or are you sure of things?

on the road where we met: you stared   
unmoving    until i moved first
i know you watched until i was out of sight

and i must never take for granted the patience of a wild thing.


Friday, January 4, 2013

before january 31st

Before the end of January:

1. Sew the four projects I bought fabric for on Wednesday. (They're really easy projects.)
2. Ride a horse.
3. Write a poem.
4. Buy a calendar.

Seems simple enough.

Tuesday, January 1, 2013

new years day

I need a calendar.

And a studio space for writing and making.

And to miraculously stop being so messy.

And to have more energy, and to feel more comfortable.

Beyond thinking a little about what I need more of in my life, I haven't come to any decisions for new years resolutions. I can't decide what I'm willing to commit to. (Probably "be more decisive" should have been on my resolutions list for the last ten years at least.)

I guess, here's something tentative:

1. Read every day.
2. Create something once a month.
3. Start riding again -- including taking some lessons.
4. Organize and personalize my office at work so it feels less like some generic person's office and more like my own happy, inspiring workspace.

And I want to say something about cleaning more, but really, I don't want to clean more. I just want to suddenly find myself in a nicer, more organized environment. As if by magic.

As for the obligatory reflections on the year just passed: I hardly remember 2012 at all. I feel very far away from it already. We drove past our old house last night and it looked so perfect and familiar and, at the same time, foreign. Our lives are so very different from the ones we had living there. Not better or worse, I think -- just so completely different. For a minute I wanted to drive around back, let myself in and go to bed in our old room with all of our things there. But we don't live there anymore.

I wonder if we ever will again.